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The third wine, Apothic Red, is owned by E.

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Gallo , another wine conglomerate. Try these wines with food and on their own. Perhaps some of you are familiar with them already. Others may have never tried them. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice. Log In. These are wines for people who like wines like these, not some noble introductory effort to a glorious world beyond.

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And far more people are drinking these wines than, say, excellent Anderson Valley pinot noirs , just as far more people are eating fast-food hamburgers than dining at good corner bistros or exploring the tasting menus of visionary chefs. These represent the two alternate universes of the wine business.

One, in which consumers essentially pick brands that they like and stay loyal, is vastly larger. These drinkers value consistency and familiarity. The other, smaller universe is the usual audience for Wine School.


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These people find wine interesting enough to explore, to learn about. To them, it represents something more than a product on a grocery list. They find wine to be something with the capacity to surprise, to mystify, to disappoint, yes, but also to move them emotionally. These people embrace the unexpected rather than the familiar.

Some consumers may move between these groups freely, depending on their shifting priorities, but the philosophies and methods of production for the two groups of wines are vastly different. I want to be clear that, despite my obvious identification with one of these groups, I do not make judgments about the other.

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Nobody is obliged to be interested in wine, any more than they are to follow football or ballet or woodworking. Obviously, I do my share of evangelizing about wine, but if people have other priorities, that is fine with me. No one should think that the wine he chooses to drink reveals anything about his character. Semiotics and marketing aside, the connotations associated with wine are deeply damaging both to American wine culture and the civilized discussion of it.

One of those damaging connotations is snobbery.

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That word was liberally laced through those odd comments and myriad emails I received, and it has no place in the discussion. Fans of Apothic and the others ought to be free to enjoy these wines without disapproval. But they should not expect wine critics to speak approvingly of the wines themselves.

But then, you should not look to others for validation. It certainly is not condescending for a critic or wine-lover to call these bottles bad wine, if they can make a cogent argument for their point of view. Regardless of what anybody thinks of these wines, I think that trying them was illuminating, and I plan to suggest it again, from another angle, in the future.

I hope the takeaway is some semblance of understanding, first, that a huge segment of the wine industry is devoted to the production of processed wines, which satisfy an audience of many millions.


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